Great Gable and Green Gable from Honister Hause –Sunday June 3rd– Week 3

Easy to follow paths – a Lakeland classic

The Wasdale region of the Lake District is quite unfamiliar to me. It generally takes about two and a half hours to get here, more if you choose to take on Hardnott Pass then it’s more like three hours. It’s home to the Scafell massive of course and Great Gable was our first ascent and would be a marker for how we would fare on the next few walks leading upto and attack on Scafell Pike itself in August.

Leading anyone onto fells of such magnitude as Green and Great Gable should and did cause me some concern. Just to acknowledge the responsibility that comes with it and that while anyone who cares to come along does so at their own risk I can’t help feeling a little bit anxious. The weather of course is first to consider and given that summer still hasn’t started properly all eyes were on the forecast for days before. It was looking like a mixed bag weather wise but generally it looked like it would be dry but cloudy.  The mountain forecast alluded to early fog in the south clearing from the north and so figured Skiddaw as a second option. By Sunday morning I decided that Great Gable was still on so we left the grey skies of the north east behind fingers crossed for better in the west.

Very steep path from Honister Hause to Grey Knotts

Today we rustled up a little crew formed from previous companions. Later riser, bed headed Cherry Cheeks/Hip Hop heppers AKA Paul, made the last shout from Abs who leavered him form his pit with a phone call at 8am. Abs of course back from the dead since missing Blencathra was buzzin to be back on the fells again. Lesley was keen to come along but her participation in this event was still hanging in the balance since she was struck down with a bout of sickness that couldn’t be explained, so she came a long for the ride with the small people Jack and Em.

This outing was going to be special because we were all about to S.M.A.S.H our altitude records. I was especially excited for Jack and Emily because they would do so on the same day as me, meaning that we had something to share and remember as a joint achievement. Furthermore Jack would have bagged another 4 Wainwrights taking his total to 30. Not bad for a 9 year old who not that bothered about walking, though with every successful S.M.A.S.H he takes on a greater appreciation for what we do an a Sunday each month.

We arrived at the Slate Mine on Honister Pass familiar to those that made the ground breaking walk of Haystacks and Fleetwith Pike in March. Squashed between Dale Head and Grey Knotts it’s alive now not only for those wanting to take home a special piece of the lakes in the form of some real green slate, but also people looking for thrills outdoors. I’d read about the recent planning applications to establish a 1.2km zip wire here which would run from Black Star on Fleetwith Pike to the car park at the slate mine making it the longest in Europe. The BMC (British Mountaineering Council) formally rejected the development in May 2011 argued it to be inappropriate in an area of such tranquility. What it does have though is a Via Ferreta which is Italian for the iron way. A system of cables and iron rungs attached to the rock face historically used to move soldiers through the Alps. It gives ordinary people the experience of rock climbing without any mountaineering experience to get close to the rock at heights they would never previously thought possible.http://www.honister.com/via_ferrata_at_honister.asp. Of course the plans sparked a huge battle of words between those who believe the Lake District is a national park that should remain an oasis of peace and tranquility and those who want to make it the adventure capital of Britain and develop it into a playground for thrill seekers and extreme activities. It’s a tough one. Personally I can see it from both sides. I tend to object when I imagine the hordes of cars passing through small villages like Seathwaite and Buttermere. The infrastructure to support visitors would be too intrusive and would certainly loose that unspoiled aroma that Buttermere has managed to hold onto unlike it’s Windermere relation. Though like many others that appreciate the outdoors and the lakes as a place to visit then I do want access to it. Wether I’m walking, mountain biking or hanging from a rock by a wire then I don’t want to be told I’m spoiling the tranquility. But I do understand it if Jack is issued with a dispersal order.

After almost heading off in reverse we tracked back and began the steep ascent to Grey Knotts a stepped thigh busting climb among  the crags and crevices that make up this side of Honister’s hause. Jack quickly began to boil up complaining he was too warm. We discovered under his jacket he was layered up to the eye balls thanks to his mother who has a tendency to over dress the small people. Removing a mid shirt Jack was on his way up.

Ascending Grey Knotts

We used the fence line to track a straight line across the contours then out of nowhere a fellow sporting a red sash and running short cross our path and hooked himself over the boundary blowing a horn as he went. This was odd and saw him run aimlessly into the distance. Then just minutes after another guy did the same but he was looking less comfortable and not wearing a red sash, in pursuit of the previous guy. It was evident something was going on and I hadn’t a clue what it was but it sounded familiar if only for the horn that was just like the ones huntsmen use on a fox hunt.

Gaps began to extend between us with Abs setting a healthy pace while I hung back with Jack and Emily. We clambered though the rock formations and arrived at Grey Knotts as a stiff wind gathered strength now we were in the open. Views opened up all around. Behind was Dale head with it’s obvious tall cairn though it was just a tiny pin from here and Haystacks and High Stile on our right and Kirk Fell straight ahead. You could go on spotting peaks all day from here.

Emily’s a spring chicken and she’s having a ball and Paul’s an extra from Oliver.

A little person taking a rest on a bundle of toothpicks. Great Gable behind with a cloud top.

We picked out our next goal and Brandreth but it’s unimpressive against a backdrop of much mightier mountains. With the wind firmly behind us we set off and cock a leg back over the ruined fence line to follow a wide path strewn with boulders punctuated good cairns. Small pools and tarns meant that the going was easing. The next Wainwright, Brandreth would probably be the easiest peak we’ve Smashed yet as we cruised onto it not entirely sure we were even on it. There are a number of cairns around here so asked sput nick to point us to the correct pile of stones. Brandreth forms a triangular plan that falls away gently to the north to Grey Knotts and Honister. To the west it drops to Ennerdale and east it falls very steeply to Gillcoombe amd Seathwaite. Thus Brandreth is the only fell that feeds the three lakes of Derwent, Buttermere and Ennerdale.  It’s a large plateaux and barely feels like a ridge walk to Green Gable.

From Brandreth – Left to right – Pillar – Ennerdale Water- Haystacks and High Stile – Buttermere and Emily.

Excitement mounted as Green and Great Gable dominated the view ahead. Green Gable

Jack climbs Green Gable from Gillercomb Head. A fine view of Ennerdale Valley and the River Liza

looked like a challenge while Great Gable was daunting since it held it’s cloud cap from the time we could see it. No other peak did, not even those on the Sca Fell range, and this seemed to reinforce it’s height. We took off easily downwards toward Gillercomb Head making up the path as we went through the massive stones that gathered evermore dense. We all agreed to walk as far as the foot of Green Gable and shelter from the growing wind to take out lunch and fuel up for the climbs ahead.  Jack and Emily nested among the stones and passed around a fine platter of chocolate muffins and turkey sandwiches. Abs took a back seat and was quietly breathing the air while Heppers had relieved a passing walker of his lighter for a lunch time tab to complete his Artful Dodger ensemble, all he need now was my accent and the part was his. We filled our cake holes, leave the shelter (and maybe one of Emily’s pink gloves). We make straight for the tidy peak via an equally tidy path that slices through the grass banks of Green Gable.

Gillercomb Head and Green Gable and Great Gable

Green Gable – SMASHed!

Green Gable is an outstanding viewpoint in every direction. The view down to Ennerdale and Buttermere holds much interest. There’s lots to take in. Separated by Haystacks so familiar to us since we were there on sunny Sunday in March. Behind us we could still see Dale Head and Robinson, Maiden More now from this height. Great Gable is so close, so enormous it can just about fits in your eyes.

Gable Crag from Green Gable

To the south east below Great End the tarns of Styhead and above, Sprinkling Tarn. On the horizon, The Langdale Pikes of Harrison Stickle and Pike of Stickle.

The was no doubt about our position as far as Emily could tell. I’d traced her finger over the map on Saturday night stopping at Windy Gap. Today it was worthy of it’s name. Emily smiled and shouted against the power of the wind in the col between Green and Great Gable. “This must be windy Gap!”

Broad Crag, Sca Fell Pike and Sca Fell as seen from the Windy Gap

The fun part started now on the climb or scramble if you wanted too up Great Gable itself. We crossed and zig zagged our way through the loose rock. A wrong foot here could end a walk as sand coloured boulders rolled and slipped under the boots, it felt better to get a hold here and there. The passing places are narrow. Waiting to let other walkers by was safer than trying to pick another line. Jack and Emily always enjoy this kind of climbing, they seem to crawl over the rock but often end up making their own route up simply because they cannot see the path being that bit smaller, they need guiding back to the trail.

The summit is a massive boulder field, a rounded summit with a number of cairns indicating the way up, or the way down. We climb onto the summit behind the memorial plaque set on the summit rock commemorating those members of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club who died in the First World War. I hadn’t told Abs about the view from here and just before we arrived I set him for the surprise view which was that over Wasdale and Wast Water. It didn’t fail take your breath away. This view is just stunning and considered a favourite of many walkers that love the fells. So many other peaks can be seen grouped all around. No wonder this place is often chosen to scatter the ashes of loved ones. I point out to my friends that we stand on the summit of the mountain that sits at the centre of Britain’s favourite view if seen from the far end of Wast Water. The silhouette of the Wasdale range made of Yewbarrow, Great Gable and Lingmell is depicted in the emblem of the Lake District National Park.

Time to bring out the thermos. It’s getting colder now as we shelter behind the cairn out of wind and pass around the binoculars to survey the fells around, notably spending most of the time spotting other walkers ascending Scafell Pike. There appeared to be no one on the Pike. The shelter was easy to make out. But on closer inspection and a slight tweak of focus the shelter was actually mobbed by walkers, changing shape as people bustled about on the summit. Also seen were scores of walkers in single file heading up too. It was like Fawcett Street up there, (or Piccadilly Circus depending on your upbringing). Abs avoided the offer of tea, not wanting to foment a toilet break. Jack messed on with the GPS forcing a new altitude record beyond the official 899 metres by standing high on the cairn with his arm stretched high it clocked 900 meters. I fear he’ll be bringing a set of steps on the next outing. He was highly amused. We polished off the remains of our bait and sat back and watched the cloud roll in behind us. The view began to fade and signaled the best time to descend but not without a SMASH peak photo, though it was devoid of any scenery, replaced with the grey cap we’d seen Great Gable wear all day. Jack offered to do the honours as we stood battered against the moist wind. Just before leaving though the cloud lifted ever so slightly and grabbed this shot of the small people who I have to say am so incredibly proud of. They really have made this day so fun. I now marvel at how at ease they are outdoor in such openness. They entertain us by entertaining themselves. It’s great to share their effort with them and listen to them pointing out the next peaks they want to climb. Scafell Pike for them now looks very achievable with Skiddaw and Helvellyn to SMASH in July they should be set for a successful assault on England’s highest.  So big up the small people!

Brother and Sister – Jack 9 and Emily 8 years on a very windy Great Gable summit.

Descending Great Gable. Yewbarrow and Wastwater make the backdrop.

We set away down the north west face of this pyramidical fell into a bombed maze of rock and car sized boulders overlooking Kirk Fell. Steeply down, holding the stone and checking our feet. It’s tricky. Lead by Jack and Emily we descend below the cloud line the view begins to open up again for a sharper look at Wasdale. Jack and Em begin their usual teasing of the older members of the crew by wondering out loud about what was holding us up.

I don’t mind being teased far taking it easy but there’s a time and place for speed and this particular descent needed a little patience as Jack soon found when he wrong footed tumbled off the narrow path. He rolled over lengthways a couple of times fortunately the sides were stable enough that he went no further. We all gasped. At first we thought he would keep going. He was ok but a bit shaken. Shocked I think from the idea he had just fallen off a mountain. His leg hurt near and his hip, apart from that he was ok. It could have been worse if he’d knocked his head or something. I checked him over and  he began to cry, he knew he had been a little too excited, sliding down on his backside as sometimes he and Emily do when it turns steep. I think his back pack served as some protection too cause I’m sure he fell onto some rock embedded into the ground. I was a little cross with him but it wasn’t a time for being cross, he needed a quiet word of warning about taking his time and not to get over excited. A reality check for Jack and reminder of what can happen when you loose concentration for moment. I explained that when accidents happen it’s the cold that is the real danger if you cannot move you get cold quickly out here and it can take a long time to get you off the mountain. We had a hug and held hands for while until the trail eased a little and made down to Mosses trod which we would follow to Drum House.

Paul in Stone Cove

We got caught up in the game of Hare and Hounds and this time we quizzed a guy about what was going on. In essence he was just playing tig. He was a senior looking fellow with stork like legs. He surveyed the fell all around but set sights on a man with a red sash. He was the hare and this old “hound” we were with pretended to be with us doing his best to disguised himself as a fell walker so he could get closer the hare. We carried on walking and he backed up the fell. We talked to another younger couple of hounds and they explained there are four hares and twenty hounds. The hares are generally made up of professional runners, cross country runners, tri-athletes, people of that persuasion. The game is a tradition that takes place every Whitsun and has done since 1898 and is essentially a manhunt that history tells was really a woman hunt. She was known as Black Sall, she was a notorious smuggler in the 17th century, so the story goes, who was torn to pieces by dogs. They had chased her over the fell as she tried to escape with her booty. She had been smuggling plumbago (graphite) from Seathwaite mines – a then precious commodity used in the manufacture of cannonballs. Today there’s a bothy called Black Sail Hut just below Haystacks.

Mosses trod named after another smuggler.

Leaving Great Gable along Mosses Trod

The trail dips into Ennerdale slightly to give good views of Haystacks and Black Tarn before turning right to Drum House. Whilst Paul pondered the merits of running a calculated probability model in order to increase one chances of winning the lottery, he let out a yelp of excruciating pain. He went over and hit the deck grabbing his ankle. What a fright! But he’d just twisted it and got up and carried on almost as if nothing had happened. 20 minutes later he did it again. This time we weren’t nearly as concerned despite the same cries of pain.

Black Tarn and Buttermere

The walk was a gentle stroll from now on and the mood was ever relaxed but for Abs and Jack quizzing each other on the worlds geology and national flags. Anything to pass away the slow descent to Honister knowing full well a big mug of tea was waiting at the slate mine tea shop. Abs lead the way down with Emily then Jack and Paul and myself holding back and holding my bladder. I should have taken heed to Abs’s advise on Great Gable.

Chatting about small matters.

Honister Slate Mine in miniature


Walk Route Summary:– Honister Pass, Honister Hause, Grey Knotts, Brandreth, Green Gable, Windy Gap, Great Gable, Westmorland Cairn, Beck Head, Beckhead Tarn, Moses’ Trod, Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk, Honister Pass.Vital Statistics for this Walk

  • Length/Distance: 9.00km (5.75 miles)
  • Total Ascent: 731m (2340ft)
  • Allow at least: 4.50hrs
  • Walk Grade: 


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Blencathra from Threlkeld – near Keswick – Sunday 6th May

Blencathra’s ‘other’ ridge

For anyone who visits the Lake District from the North East over England’s spine the Pennines via the A66 will most likely face the mass wall of mountain with the distinctive ‘Saddleback’ shape. Blencathra is one the most accessible of mountains, at least if your hail from over our way. I can recall (before I ever walked on any fell) the times I passed by this range so close to the motor way. It runs so close you have to crane your

Hall’s Fell Ridge to Hall’s Fell Top

neck to see the top from the car. It’s imposing and to me back then looked far from accessible. In fact I don’t believe I had a notion that anyone would walk on it. I mean how could you, more over, why would you want to? But I think even then as someone who had no comprehension of the pleasure it gives to take a path up to the top of a mountain, I still wondered what it would be like to stand on it. The weather concerned me. It always looked grim and unwelcoming as if it was saying, ‘you can have a go, but you need to know what you are getting into.’ I’m not an experienced climber, mountaineer by any stretch of the imagination but I look at these peaks now and just want to be at the top, now with more of a sense of curiosity. I wonder what you can see from that one?

Those early musings must have had some sort of impact on me. This will be my fourth visit to Blencathra having always ascended from Scales. One failed attempt at Sharp edge with my wife’s uncle Ray trying to ignore the fact I had a viral infection that had me stopping after every 10 steps, you can imagine what peering over the Edge felt like. I don’t really do heights as it is. Ray swore blind we needed ropes to scramble the last hands on section onto Atkinson Pike. He talked me out of it, we retreated back to Scales Tarn and ascended via the common route to Hall’s Top.

I wanted to make this walk a little different. One where we could get our hands on a mountain and figured the way up should be a scramble via the other ridge on the face of Blencathra. Hall’s Fell ridge is a prominent rib that has some excellent options for anyone looking for taster for scrambling.

Today was blighted only by the absence of friends and family. The week had mowed down some of our sturdy companions. Abs, with a chest infection and Emily with a cold. Nicole also worse for ware, threw a sicky. Lesley of course stay home with Emily which was a shame as I was looking forward to helping Lesley get her own back at Blencathra after I once misguided her first attempt on any fell, throwing her in the deep end. We bailed about two-thirds of the way up and didn’t speak for bit afterwards. But after her stirling effort on Haystacks and Fleetwith I figured she was better conditioned now for a crack at Big Blen. But after all the hype she missed out. 

Anth, was super enthusiastic as ever and  he’s clearly excited about the prospect of SMASHing higher peaks. They appeal to him, because Scafell Pike looms in August on the diary. Blencathra will wet his proverbial big peak whistle I think.

For Jack, it’s just another day out with his dad and whoever else might like a look out. It’ll be a chance for him to SMASH his personal altitude record. I think his highest prior to today was the Old Man of Coniston, 803 meters which he SMASHed when he was 5 years old. At nearly 10 he can’t remember much of it now. He prefers not to.

From Thelkeld we start out through the village to Gategill and pick up the footpath taking us directly onto Hall’s Fell Ridge. In no time at all the gloves were on. Can you believe it started to snow? I wanted to say it’s was sleet because it can’t snow in May surely? But it was snow. No chance of it settling on the ground, that wasn’t any concern but what was would be the state of things to come at height. Looking skyward we could see white clouds of snow moving in from Keswick and another one just below Knowe Crag to the left of the ridge. I wouldn’t describe it as threatening; but more bizarre. The temperature was just 9° when we left the car and the sky was breaking up and the lambs seemed joyful enough in the fields and generally it was still pleasant weather.

I decided to take the sting out of the first 150 meters by taking a faint track diagonally across the fell and then cut back onto the main path. The height gained quickly offering views west of Derwent Water and to the South-east, Great Mell Fell. We spread some yards between us making our own way onto the ridge stopping to watch the reaction of sheep to Jacks wooly hat. Sheep often loose sight of their little ones too and need to get by anyone in the way.

Once on the ridge, the grassy fell gave way to a loose slate chipped path flanked with bare rock crags. We aimed at the false summits on the ridge and marked them out for a sit down. I figured halfway would be a good time to take a break. The experience so far was already so different from any other ascents on the S.M.A.S.H calendar. From this standpoint the shape of the peak is more pinnacle than the approach from Scales. Alfred Wainwright gave more pages to Blencathra than any other Lakeland peak in his guide books. I think he makes reference to seven ascents of Blencathra giving considerable praise to the Hall’s Fell route.

Anth enjoying a wide open space over looking Clough Head with Threlkeld quarry below.

From here on the ridge narrows and the stone crevasses signal the way forward.  Once on the ridge the temptation for me at least was to stay on it, despite knowing the path is just a few meters below. I invited Jack and Anth to take the hands on alternative. Before long we are all coiling ourselves and springing to the next ledge, flexing and grappling with the mountain and hefting our way upwards.  As we moved on we each take our individual view of the ridge seeking out the most interesting lines.

Jack getting a hold of the mountain in the snow!

The ridge was busy today with most choosing to make their descent on Hall’s Fell Ridge. A committee of unlikely looking fellas were having a meeting on the ridge and eyeballing the best way down across some slippery slab sections.

The only way is Up!

After 2 hours and 10 minutes we pop directly onto Hall’s Fell Top, the principle summit point of Blencathra. There’s none of that over the brow and walk 100 yards to the trig,  it’s there as soon as you peer over the last of the ridge to find a small sorry-looking cairn and a concrete ring in the ground marking the summit. There were a few walkers on the summit and asked one lone guy if he would take our photo. Jack has now bagged his 25th Wainwright at 868 meters, so well done Jack. He was modest as usual about his latest achievement. I wanted to show Jack and Anth Scales Tarn and Sharp Edge. We turned right dropping down toward Tarn Crags off the path to find a stone to sit on. The view north from here is dominated by the rounded face of Bannerdale Crags with Bowscale Fell to the left. The east has Souther Fell and the A66.

Sharp Edge and Scales Tarn. With Bannerdale and Bowscale Fell behind.

It’s deadly quiet though and we sat to try to hear the conversations of those down below at Scales Tarn beginning their ascent via Sharp Edge, regarded as not fit for walkers. You need a head for heights, which I don’t and besides in this changing weather it’s smooth and sharp edges are best avoided in my opinion. The deep bowl shape holds sound in and makes it easy hear others talking that would otherwise not be heard at such distance.

We picked ourselves up and returned to Halls Fell top to join the South East track to Gategill Top and onto Knowe Crags. We neared the edge to get a giddy view down one of the many gullies to witness snow blowing from below us, carried by the wind tracing the side of Blencathra.

On Stern Blencathra’s perilous height

The winds are tyrannous and strong:

And flashing forth unsteady light

From stern Blencathra’s skiey height,

As loud the torrent throng!                       Samuel Taylor Coleridge

The snow was merely a shower and passed over leaving a white muslin like veiled scene. It was a surreal view like someone had been messing with the contrast setting. From the foreground through to the mountains of Skiddaw, Latrigg, High Rigg, the Newlands and Clough Head had their own shade of grey. You could make out Great Gable and Sca Fell too on the skyline.

Tewet Tarn in the foreground – Thirlmere and Derwent Water – You can just make out Sca Fell in the distance.

“That’s snow right there lad.”

With each meter lost in height we gained a clearer view of the path ahead down a zig-zag trail. It’s slow and hard on the knees. But as the path leveled (slightly) we sat down on the long grass as the snow gave way to sunshine we finished our lunch and took out the binoculars. We could spy out some walkers on High Rigg and into the model town of Keswick.

The conversation continued to be dominated between Jack and Anth since Jack heard mention of Derwent prompting him to recount every detail of his time spent at Derwent Hill, the outdoor adventure retreat for school kids. As it’s funded by Sunderland Council, a lot of adults from the north-east can remember their tales of outdoor malarkey with their school-mates. Anth had a chance to immerse himself in nostalgic memories with Jack confirming nothing had changed and everything was just as Anth remembered about thirteen years ago. Every swing, splash and jump was relived in vivid detail. Jack is looking forward to going back in October to learn more crazy songs about a materialistic bird with a yellow bill.

Stepping over Blease Gill

We cut back into the ingress on a buffed track to Blease Gill and right into the wood. Threlkeld is a pretty little village with well-kept houses made from the local quarry. There are more pubs than you can shake a stick at too. The sun was out for good now and the perils of snow far gone.

The Horse and Farriers looks like a good setting for a pot of Earl Grey from Twinnings. It was by Anth’s standards a fine cuppa made all the better by taking it outdoors to chat about the day against a perfect Lakeland back drop. After nearly 6 miles this walk crams in everything you could ask for from a day on the fells. Strenuous walking to bust the quads and calf muscles, a scramble for beginners, massive views to try out your peak spotting skills and the obligatory changing Lakeland weather experience. Which ever way you prefer to scale Blencathra it will please anyone with the slightest appreciation for getting out on the fells.

Clicky here: Vital Statistics for this Walk

Walk Route Summary:-Threlkeld, Gategill Farm, Hall’s Fell, Hall’s Fell Ridge, Blencathra Or Saddleback (Hallsfell Top), Gategill Fell Top, Knowe Crags (Blease Fell),Threlkeld.

  • Walk Grade: 

Haystacks and Fleetwith Pike – Buttermere – Sunday 18th March – Week 4

S.M.A.S.H. Pay Tribute to Wainwright’s favourite mountain.

It’s not often I admit that one of the lasting memories of this particular outing was formed in the car on the way. The Lakes are home to some fine passes. Kirkstone,  Hardknott. I wasn’t expecting such a scene as we turned into the Butteremere on the Honister Pass. Wedged between Dale Head and Fleetwith Pike we rolled down the steep ribbon of road to Gatesgarth. The enormous fells either side and the view in the valley is a mixture of claustrophobia shared with the immense space that opens out before you. I’d have been satisfied with that view alone.

I’d never been to this valley. I’ve climbed to Dale Head a few years back and only searched back through old photos to see if I’d shot any of Buttermere from there or maybe Hindsgarth. If I’d known just how stunning this valley was I’d have come here well before now.

Fleetwith Pike

Today my walking buddies are S.M.A.S.H’s founding father Abs of course, bringing a fine selection of shades under his Aussie hat. A welcome return of John last out on Latrigg in October bringing a suitable wide lens this time. Nicole, obviously impressed from the last walk up Wansfell and Baytones, up for another challenge bringing a dry boot. Then there’s a full Bowen squad. Lesley (my wife), with her pockets full of trepidation and the small people Jack and Emily bringing chaos, entertainment and mountains of energy.

So spring has sprung and the sun shone between massive white clouds. When it dipped behind them you were reminded that it’s still early and a slight chill lingers about you.

We leave Gatesgarth and it’s dairy cows and head straight down the BW to Peggys Bridge and stop to take in the beauty of this valley from the pasture so green and set against the painted blue sky evoking a real feeling of summer. Short sleeves, shades and packing light jackets in case winter decides to make a surprise return, it was good to be up and outside.

To Peggy's Bridge under High Crag

There’s an added silence to this valley that was apparent from the other walks.  Warnscale beck was even respectful enough too by just keeping the noise down and not rushing to fast as to interupt the peace but just babling along gently.

Sshh..Haystacks over Warnscale Beck

It was becoming clear to me that Wainwright’s favourite mountain; Haystacks was not necessarily just about the mountain, but probably because it was so quiet, ideal for a loner like him who would give a greater appreciation for the silence and lack of visitors. Only that now because he made it his favourite, Haystacks ironically sees more than its share of walkers as we step aside to let a few gents overtake us onto Buttermere fell.

Buttermere from the Fell reflecting Goat Crag

From Buttermere fell we aim for Scarth Gap easily visable. Getting there though was not so easy. We negotiate the wet boulder garden where the path fades and you just tend to step up onto anything that looks like it won’t roll away. This is where the small people excel. Their low centre of gravity lends well to scampering over this type of terrain and before long they are out of sight. We don’t see them again until we reach the gap.

Making the most of his size, Jack enjoyed the climb to Scarth Gap.

Most of us adults kind of flop down on the short grass mounds that make up  the various view points at Scarth gap where as Emily seems to get charged from any summit. She’s not a valley person, her mood dips in the lowlands, but once she feels the breeze and the openness of a pinnicle she’s all full of energy and constant chat. She knows what it is to celebrate on a summit.

Will Emily be as enthusiastic later on Fleetwith Pike seen behind?

Lesley asked “where now”? It’s fair to say this is all new to Lesley and she’s still scoping out this fell walking malarky, constantly assessing her mood and how she feels about exerting herself on the fells for pleasure.  I think we’ve all been at that place where you kind of wonder what there is that’s so enjoyable when the effort required to get to a peak does not outweigh the satisfaction from standing on one. She openly admits to not enjoy the climbing but understands it’s an unavoidable part of what we’re here for, so talks herself to accepting that she must push on but unfortunately upwards. I point over to Big Stack on Haystacks, not playing it down but setting the expectation. I say “it’s right up there, over that crag”. A wall of rock somehow to be walked over. She looks at it thinking ropes must be required at some point.  We set off, the small people lead the way and again out of sight dashing towards the rock section onto Haystacks. This is where having the kids lead is somewhat encouraging to Lesley. She can see they are enjoying themselves and making it look easy too. She want’s to see them show her mum which way to go. The stand high up on the side of Haystacks shouting down to the rest of us. “Come on”. We smile, thinking, cheeky little so and so’s. It’s encouraging though and we put or hands on the rock and take more consideration to each step.

Buttermere and Crummock Water, climbing of Haystacks

On the peak we gather together for the big arms photo.

Haystacks - SMASHed!

With the photo session out of the way we search out  the south side of Haystacks for somewhere out of the breeze. There’s some nice little alcoves to sit in facing the sun looking over to Great Gable or Pillar and you can get a good view of Ennerdale too. During lunch all call everyone together and ask for some quiet.

Lesley on Haystacks - High Crag and Ennerdale forming the backdrop

Some of us know of Alfred Wainwright, may cropped up in conversation during past walks but I thought if fitting to bring with me a eulogy of the great man and tell my walking companions about him and how he lived his life for the love of the fells. A tribute then to AW on his favourite mountain where his ashes were scattered as was his wish. So pay respect he said to that piece of grit in your boot it may be me.
After a half hour break we set off down to Innominate Tarn. The small people took off early with a GPS to find a Geocache that was placed near the tarn.  When we got there we could just make them out in the crag and

Innominate Tarn - Pillar on the left and the back of Haystacks on the right.

out crops that surround this stunning body of water. I lent a hand to find the geocache, unfortunately it was one of those with nothing in bar the pads to log your visit with. Jack and Emily like geocaching for the small trinkets and cheap toys found in them. So a little disappointed this time.
Knowing that the next aim is to Fleetwith Pike the drop of around 100meters is welcoming but there’s that sense that the climb with be more challenging. There’s a good path down to Black Tarn which makes another good view point straight down the gully into Buttermere valley

Buttermere and Green Crag from Black Tarn

and behind offers a good view of Green and Great Gable which I pointed out SMASH would attempt in June. Seeing it so clearly, we were excited by the prospect.
The waters of Black tarn looked evermore inviting as the afternoon sun was about as high as it gets in March getting us all a little more than just hot under the collar excluding Jack and Emily lobbing stones into the water.

Jack at Black Tarn and a Green and Great Gable skyline.

Next we push on towards the manmade spoils of Dubs Quarry. A much contrasted landscape from the views so far. This quarry was closed in 1932 after it employed over 100 men producing 3000 tones a year in 1891.  Just over 100 year later the mines were reopened by Mark Weir in 1997 who developed the quarries into a thriving tourist attraction, and at the same time producing small quantities of roofing slate. Mark Weir was killed in a helicopter crash at the mine on the evening of 8th March 2011.

Push up the quarry Path towards Fleetwith Pike

This part of the walk required at least in my opinion to pick up the bridleway heading away from Fleetwith Pike in an attempt to even the climb. I was a little unsure if we could walk straight through the qaurry, this would have been tougher on tired legs. Emily was looking waked now but she was determined to keep walking. Looking around the group I sensed we were all a little quieter now and tried to lift the group by pointing out we were not that far from the Pike. It was later in the day now that I had anticipated but we had taken some time along the way to rest. We’d taken our time but a walk like this needs to be appreciated slowly and not rushed.
Through the quarry Lesley’s mood crashed a bit and Emily surrendered her legs to a shoulder carry from her dad. Carrying the back-back and Emily on my shoulders I put my head down and headed to Fleetwith Pike with steely determination accepting that maybe it was time to get this walk finished. Emily recounted one her songs she learned from Brownies to keep my occupied. It was lengthy enough to see me all the way to Fleetwith Pike. The remaining crew rocked up after about 10 mins to admire the spectacular view.

Family portrait on Fleetwith Pike

With spirits lifted once more the end and Gatesgarth was in sight but not before we clambered down Fleetwith Edge. Again Emily was energised on the summit and took off with her brother down through the channels and narrow paths on the edge.

Abs and Lesley easing down Fleetwith Edge

We all realised how tired our legs were, now trembling as we resisted the gravity of the drop.  Fairly soon Jack and Emily were nowhere to be seen. Occasionally appearing where the ground leveled clear of any technical features. John and Nicole dropped back. There must have been over a quarter of a mile between Jack and John.

John and Nicole pull off Big arms on Fleetwith Edge

Then I saw Abs running down a section of single track. Wondering if this was a burst of energy he’d acquired, was he inspired by the small people? Or was this an example of involuntary running because it was just easier to run than hold back any longer by walking. Lesley and I found it was just easier to let the forces of gravity take over as we giggled all the way down to Gategarth.

Jack and Em had sniffed out the Ice Cream van. Needless to say they got what we deserved

Haystacks, Ice Cream and rosy cheeks. SMASHed!

We dashed along to Buttermere village for a toilet break and a top up on coffee and cake before making the long journey home. The small people were asleep at Keswick. Little wonder! Well done everyone. A tough walk in such a short distance, but well worth it. Incredible views. I think I’ll come back sometime on two wheels to take in more of this area.
Loughrigg in April from Ambleside…. see you on the top.
P.S. I apologise for the late posting but as the weather has been improving there’s been so much more opportunity to get outside, I admit it’s a bit of a wrench to sit in front of a computer screen to get words down.  I have Saturday’s CRASH ride in Reeth to type up too. Coming soon.